“After 30 years in the fashion business, I’ve realised that when you come up with something different or a new approach, everyone is a bit afraid of what's going to happen. “Selling one of a kind and upcycled fashion is difficult anyway, but it’s almost impossible to do virtually,” Biraghi says. The brand struggled with sales during Covid, like so many small fashion businesses.
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Favours were asked from venues and videographers, while brand customers - aka “The Cracker Crew” - have been invited to walk the show. Sales are below €500,000 after a climb of 50 per cent in 2021, according to the brand, and revenues are expected to double again this year.Ĭracker was invited to show by Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana this season, although the brand had to organise its own venue and live stream. It currently has 16 stockists including LA store H Lorenzo and London’s LN-CC. The following year, Jordanluca launched on the Gucci Vault retail platform, where it still sells today. Struggling to reach new stockists during the pandemic, the label turned a corner after being selected by Gucci to participate in showcase Gucci Fest in 2020.
Milan is also the location this season for a show by luxury menswear label Jordanluca, founded in 2018 by Jordan Bowen, who is British, and Luca Marchetto, from Italy. The goal is to boost sales in order to afford more employees in the future, the duo says. They declined to say how much, but the brand is profitable, with just Biraghi and Cracker on the payroll. Stockists include early adopters in Japan’s GR7391, one small store in Berlin, eight small stores in Italy and the brand’s e-commerce operation, driven by its 11,400 Instagram followers. Sales are steadily climbing, with revenue growing around 15 per cent over the last 12 months, according to the brand. No one understood what I was doing and there wasn’t a big budget to work differently.” Cracker’s Instagram bio sums up his experience: “Upcycling before upcycling was a word.” But, there’s been a shift. “In 2010, everyone was focused on global luxury. The conversation was not on the table,” Biraghi says. “For a long time, upcycling was badly perceived in Milan. His perspective is expressed in English by Filippo Leone Maria Biraghi, his brand coordinator and collaborator. Cracker acknowledges that upcycling has been a hard sell in Italian luxury. It’s a challenge to a city that has preferred a more traditional approach.
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